Common Problems and Solutions of Ice Makers

Determine the fault based on the symptom conditions: 1.

Symptoms: The compressor is working but not freezing ice.

Reason: Refrigerant leakage or the electromagnetic valve is damaged and not closing tightly. Repair: Leak detection, repair, add refrigerant or replace the electromagnetic valve.

2. Symptoms: The compressor is working and able to freeze ice, the water pump is also working and pumping water, the ice block keeps getting thicker, but it never enters the dehydration program to drop the ice.

Reason: Fault of the water temperature sensor, causing the intelligent control system to not effectively sense the water temperature and operate, erroneous program judgment, or controller failure.

Repair: Use a multimeter to measure the resistance value of the water temperature sensor (when the water temperature in the water tank is close to 0°C, remove the three-core wire in the control box and test the resistance values of the two wires on both sides), if the resistance is lower than 27K, it is judged as a controller failure and should be replaced. If the resistance is lower than 27K, disconnect one of the two wires and adjust the resistance to be between 27K and 28K by series connection of a resistor.

3. Symptoms: The machine enters the ice removal program (the water pump stops working, the compressor stops cooling) but the ice block does not fall off.

Reason: Defrosting electromagnetic valve is damaged.

Repair: Replace the electromagnetic valve or the external coil.

4. Symptoms: The low water level indicator is on but the machine does not automatically refill water.

Reason: There is no water in the pipeline or the water inlet electromagnetic valve is faulty, and the valve does not open.

Repair: Check the water intake situation of the pipeline. If there is no water, open the water supply line and restart the machine. If the water inlet electromagnetic valve is faulty, replace it.

5. Symptoms: The compressor is working but the water pump does not work (no water flow).

Reason: The water pump is damaged or there is scale and blockage inside the water pump.

Repair: Clean the water pump or replace the water pump.

Based on the flashing of the indicator lights to determine the fault:

1. The power indicator light keeps flashing rapidly and the machine does not work:

Fault: Check for open circuit of the water temperature sensor.

Repair: Open the rear cover plate, open the electrical control box cover above the compressor, find a three-core connector, check for any detachment or poor contact, reconnect it and it will be fine.

2. The three indicator lights flash in a cycle and the machine does not work:

Fault: The ice freezing and ice removal of the machine are not normal.

Repair: A. Cut off the power supply, restart the machine, first check if the fan and water pump are working normally. If there are any abnormalities, eliminate them first, then check if the compressor has started working. If it has not started, check the area near the compressor. If it has started, determine the refrigeration system failure and follow the corresponding repair method.

B. If the refrigeration system has no fault and can freeze ice, but never enters the ice removal state, the machine will stop working for protective purposes after 90 minutes. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance value of the water temperature sensor (when the water temperature in the water tank is close to 0°C, remove the three-core wire in the control box and measure the resistance values of the two wires on both sides), if the resistance is above 27K, it is judged as a controller failure and should be replaced accordingly. If the resistance is lower than 27K, disconnect one of the two wires and adjust the resistance to be between 27K and 28K by series connection of a resistor.

3. The ice full indicator flashes rapidly:

Fault: Indicates that the ice removal time has exceeded the specified time, the machine automatically protects.

Repair: A. In general, restarting the machine will solve this problem. If it occurs repeatedly, check if the sliding ice plate can move flexibly up and down.

B. If the two-way electromagnetic valve is damaged, this phenomenon will also occur. The machine can freeze ice, but when the ice block reaches the set thickness and enters the ice removal state, the water pump stops working and the ice does not fall off. Force ice removal during inspection (press the selection key for 3 seconds continuously), if there is no obvious airflow sound in the ice maker, it can be considered that the two-way electromagnetic valve is bad, check if the power supply of the electromagnetic valve is normal. You can replace the coil to test the machine, the valve body itself cannot be opened very rarely.

4. The water tank is empty, but the low water level indicator does not show low water, the ice block is loose and has impurities. Fault: This fault occurs because after multiple ice-making processes, impurities will remain in the water tank, or the water is rich in minerals, causing scale to form on the surface of the water level sensor, which affects the sensitivity of the sensor's detection.

Repair: Drain the remaining water and clean the interior of the water tank. Clean the surface of the sensor.

5. There is water in the water tank, but it shows a water shortage.

Repair: Check whether the two-core and three-core connectors inside the control box are reliably connected. Reconnecting them usually can solve the problem.

6. The water from the spray pipe does not flow smoothly, and some ice cubes do not fall completely.

Fault: The spray pipe is clogged;

Repair: In the state of controlling the water flow, use tweezers or other sharp objects to clean the debris attached to the water outlet holes on the spray pipe. Keep cleaning until the water flow in each hole is unobstructed.

7. Ice is made normally but dehydration is difficult or does not occur;

Fault: The two-way electromagnetic valve is not working or stuck;

Repair: After starting the ice maker, when ice cubes are formed on the ice maker, press the selection key for 3 seconds to enter the forced defrosting state. Touch the electromagnetic valve with your hand. If it does not vibrate, it indicates that the power supply of the electromagnetic valve is not normal. Check the control board and connection lines. If there is vibration, you can repeatedly defrost several times to solve some problems of electromagnetic valve sticking. If the problem persists, it indicates that the electromagnetic valve is damaged and needs to be replaced.